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  • Fixed price up front
  • Travel costs included
Expertly assembled wall wardrobe with sliding doors in a Dutch interior, installed by Mijn Meubelmontage

Furniture assembly

Wardrobe assembly, every brand

A Hülsta wall system or a Karwei shelving unit, we assemble both.

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With a wardrobe from Hülsta, Bo Concept, a DIY chain or an imported brand, the work starts with two questions: which connecting hardware is inside, and what is the wall made of. Those two decide the tools, the order of work and the fixing. We read the manufacturer's manual, recognise the hardware from the drill holes, and only choose a plug after sounding the wall. Even without a manual, the wardrobe goes up.

Scope of work

  • Brands

    Hülsta wall systems, Bo Concept, Beter Bed, Kwantum and Karwei — including second-hand or imported units with no manual. IKEA wardrobes have their own page.

  • Sliding doors in the track

    Sliding-door systems set level in the track, soft-close tested, no scraping doors.

  • Drawer layout to spec

    Blum or Hettich fittings adjusted per the manufacturer's manual, drawer organisers placed to fit.

  • Lighting & anchoring

    Integrated LED lighting wired, anchoring matched to plasterboard, sand-lime brick or concrete.

PAX wall combination anchored flush against the wall in a bright interior

Not just IKEA, every brand.

Hülsta, Bo Concept, Karwei, Kwantum or Beter Bed: we read the manufacturer's manual and carry tools for every lock and fitting.

IKEA PAX wall combination anchored flush against the wall

01 — Detail

Sliding doors clean in the track.

Sliding-door systems from Hülsta, Bo Concept or an import brand are set level in the track. No grinding, no skewed close, no ticking top rail.

02 — Detail

Fittings to manufacturer spec.

Blum, Hettich and Salice hinges are adjusted in three directions: depth, height and overlay. Soft-close tested, push-open calibrated, opened pressure-free.

03 — Detail

Anchored for your wall type.

Plasterboard, sand-lime brick, concrete or metal stud: we pick the right plugs and length up front. No loose rails, no torn walls if they tip.

On the job

The wall, the hardware and the things no manual mentions

Read the wall before drilling it

A wall tells you what it is. If it sounds hollow and the bit springs back as it bites, there is plasterboard on a frame. If fine white dust comes out and the bit cuts evenly hard, it is sand-lime brick. Grey dust with grit and a bit that bounces means concrete, so hammer action goes on. If the bit sinks almost by itself and the dust falls as a light powder, it is aerated concrete and hammer action must go off, or you blow the hole wider than the plug. We always scan for pipes and cables before a hole is made. How this works out with IKEA systems is set out under IKEA wardrobes.

Panel thickness gives away the hardware

A 16 millimetre side panel almost always carries cam locks: a round cam you turn half a revolution that pulls the panel towards it. From 19 millimetres you meet Euro screws and sometimes biscuits, and in the higher segment metal draw fittings that you pre-tension with an Allen key. The difference is not cosmetic: a cam turned too far breaks out of the chipboard and is worthless afterwards, whereas a Euro screw is meant to be tightened firmly. So we look at the holes in the panel first — their shape says exactly which fitting belongs there and how much force it will take.

Hinges adjust in three directions

Blum, Hettich and Salice all work with three adjustments, and none of them is decorative. The front screw moves the door left and right, the middle one sets the door deeper or shallower against the carcass, and the third raises or lowers it. A gap that is wider at the top than at the bottom is cured with the first, not the third. Soft-close adds a damper set to the width of the door: too light and the door slams, too heavy and it stops a centimetre short. We adjust every door only once the wardrobe is level and fixed.

A wardrobe with no manual

Second-hand, imported, or a wall system bought fifteen years ago: the paperwork is gone and the maker no longer supplies it. Then we work backwards. The drill holes in the panels fix the order, the panel thickness fixes the hardware, and the keyhole slots in the back panel fix which way is up. We photograph every step and keep the fittings for each shelf in a separate bag, so nothing is left over at the end that nobody can place. We use the same method for branded beds, see bed assembly for every brand.

A run of wardrobes against a wall that is not straight

Hardly any room corner is square, and across a three-metre run that shows itself hard: on one side the wardrobe sits tight against the wall, on the other a centimetre gapes open. That calls for a filler strip, not a bead of sealant. We measure the deviation over the full height, mark it on a separate strip and set that against the wardrobe rather than pulling the wardrobe out of square. If a skirting board or a service duct is in the way, it is scribed out. In kitchens this is daily work, see kitchen assembly.

Lighting: where our work stops

Many wall systems come with LED strips and a driver that plugs into an ordinary socket. We connect that, route the cable away behind the unit and place the driver where it stays reachable. What we do not do is wire into the consumer unit or fit a new socket outlet; that belongs with a qualified electrician, and we would rather say so beforehand than halfway through. In an office we set out that boundary at the intake — see office and living room assembly.

Sources

Before and after

A wardrobe levelled, set in the track and ready to use in a single day.

Two empty white IKEA PAX frames stood level against a deep-blue wall, ready to be fitted out with rails, drawers and lighting, herringbone parquet floor — assembly day begins — Two custom-fitted IKEA PAX wardrobes with warm LED lighting in the hanging sections and drawers, taupe interior against a deep-blue wall on a herringbone parquet floor — ready to useBeforeAfter

At a glance

What we find in the wall and what we fix a wardrobe into it with. The choice is made on site, after sounding and a test hole — a plug that holds in sand-lime brick grips nothing in aerated concrete.
Wall typeHow to recognise itFixingDrilling
Plasterboard on metal studsSounds hollow, the bit breaks through after twelve millimetresCavity anchor, or a screw into the stud itselfNo hammer action, low speed
Plasterboard on timber studsHollow, but the bit finds timber every 40–60 cmWood screw straight into the studNo hammer action
Sand-lime brickFine white dust, evenly hard goingNylon plug in a cleanly blown-out holeLight hammer action allowed
Aerated concreteThe bit sinks almost by itself, powdery light dustDedicated aircrete plug or spiral anchorHammer action off
ConcreteGrey dust with grit, the bit bouncesConcrete screw or through-bolt anchorHammer action on, cool the bit
Service wall with pipeworkHollow, but the detector gives a signalAnchor into the structural wall behind itLocate the services first

Price

On request

Fixed price up front after a short intake. No surprises on the invoice, no extra work without sign-off.

  • After photo of an assembled wardrobe — set cleanly and anchored level
  • Close-up of an assembled sliding-door wardrobe in a Dutch interior
  • Sliding-door wardrobe with doors set in the track and plinths cut to size

Practical

Duration
2–4 hours per wardrobe
Coverage
Across the Netherlands
Payment
iDEAL · card · invoice

Questions

Frequently asked questions

Do you have experience with Hülsta wall systems?

Yes, including the modular MEGA-design line. Send us the model and year beforehand so we bring the right manual and the right fittings.

Do you adjust Blum or Hettich fittings as well?

Blum, Hettich and Salice hinges are adjusted in three directions: depth, height and overlay. Soft-close is tested and push-open calibrated.

Do you assemble a wardrobe without a manual too?

Yes, second-hand or imported as well. We first check which fittings are in it before we start, and we carry tools for every lock and fitting type.

How do you know which plug belongs in my wall?

We sound the wall, look at the colour and grain of the dust and feel the resistance of the bit. Those three together say whether it is plasterboard, sand-lime brick, aerated concrete or concrete. Only then do we choose the plug, and where there is doubt we make a test hole somewhere that will later sit behind the wardrobe.

Will you assemble a wardrobe that has been built once before?

Yes, but we discuss the limits first. Cam locks and wooden dowels lose part of their grip on a second build, and a blown-out hole is filled with a timber plug or replaced by a through fixing. We will tell you when a panel is finished — driving another screw into it is pointless.

What if the wardrobe does not fit because the wall is out of square?

Then a filler strip goes between wardrobe and wall, cut to the real line of the wall. The wardrobe itself stays square and level; the strip absorbs the difference. That is more stable, and it looks better than a wardrobe pulled crooked against the wall.

After photo of an assembled wardrobe — set cleanly and anchored level

Assembled within two weeks.

Book via WhatsApp or the contact form. We reply within 24 hours.

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